‘Latvian Stew’ pleases Moscow gentleman — and a family, too

In the 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, the best seller by Amor Towles, the main character, Count Rostov, watches as a young man puzzles over a menu. The young man does not want his first date to think him cheap; on the other hand he doesn’t want to be seen as pretentious.
In an inspired moment, the young man chooses Latvian Stew.

Count Rostov approves, musing: “The onions thoroughly caramelized, the pork slowly braised, and the apricots briefly stewed, the three ingredients come together in a sweet and smoky medley that simultaneously suggests the comfort of a snowed-in tavern and the jangle of a Gypsy tambourine.”

Towles tells bookclubbook.com that he first read the recipe in a cooking magazine and he was skeptical. This was a stew recipe that uses no spices, stock, or wine. And, in fact, many cooks must have agreed since variations of the recipe that Towles’ book made famous do call for stock, spices or wine.

But, in fact, it is the lack of spices, stock and wine that wins over Towles. He advises cooks to choose a fatty cut of pork to allow a fork tender result. Also, be sure to grill the onions to a deep golden brown, to ensure a smoky flavor.

This is the official Moscow Gentleman recipe. Notice it does not call for potatoes. Towles recommends buttered parsley potatoes on the side. Adding potatoes does not change the essential flavors of the stew so if you want to skip potato peeling, the stew is fine without them.
Although the recipe does not specifically say it, you can use kitchen scissors to quarter the apricots and prunes.

With a prep time of at least 25 minutes and a cook time of 1 hour and 30 minutes, this stew is not for a busy weeknight. But, once prepared, it keeps well and can be happily served as leftovers. This recipe yields about 6 to 8 servings.

Latvian Stew
3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
6 carrots, peeled, trimmed, and sliced crosswise
4 tablespoons tomato paste
5 cups water
1 cup dried apricots
1 pound white boiling onions, peeled, each cut into 6 wedges
1 cup pitted prunes

Instructions
Season pork with salt and pepper.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add pork and cook, stirring occasionally, until meat releases its juices and is no longer pink all over, about 5 minutes.
Add carrots and cook until slightly tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and water, then add apricots.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and gently simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Add onions and prunes to stew and continue to simmer over medium-low heat until pork is tender and sauce has thickened, about 30 minutes more.